Archive for the 'articles' Category

AoE in the FT

With a brief cameo appearance by yours truly.


Eat some pancakes, watch some pommel horse

Make like you’re there: what to eat if you’re watching the Olympics in NYC. (My first TONY piece.)

And no longer timely, but just in case you missed it, here’s what I had to say about the UnFancy Food Show and New Amsterdam Market on WNYC last month.

A letter of apology

Dear Microwave,

I’m sorry about all the mean things I’ve said about you over the years. To your face, even. They were nasty, uncalled for, and only somewhat true.

I really did, for the longest time, think I didn’t need you, that you just took up a lot of needless space, that you would lure me into your nefarious, cheating ways and away from my true love, Good Honest Cooking Over a Stove.

I realize now, and I have McGee and Bittman to thank for it, that I was underestimating you all this time. You’re good for so much more than just reheating rice. You make some amazing eggplant curry. And with a minimum of fuss!

Just like every other appliance in the kitchen, you too have your own special talents that you bring to my table. And instead of turning up my nose, I really should have welcomed you into my home. And I am sorry for that. For all the wasted time we’ve been apart.

I hope you’ll forgive me, Microwave. I’ll always leave room on the shelf for you. Bygones?


P.S. I will never again make fun of Joyce for relying so heavily on you.

Totally awesome

This, this (and by extension, this), this (one of the many things I miss about the Boot), and — just nine minutes ago — this:

Totally NOT awesome: this. (Fucking terrible, in fact.)

So awesome you don’t even know: Scott McCloud’s Understanding Comics. (In fact, why didn’t I know sooner?) For anyone who likes stories (telling them, reading them), writing, art, semiotics, communication theory, and, oh yeah, comic books.

Thankful for

15 East’s uni.

Deviled eggs.

Zabb’s fish with lime.

What is it about deviled eggs and meatloaf that fascinates me so? Must be because I never had either of them until I was well away from home and probably out of college too. These foods carry with them all the cultural trappings and meaning of whole decades that I wasn’t yet alive to experience, which somehow makes them as exciting to eat as my mom’s dumplings (which is pretty damn exciting). Know what I mean?

Department of WTF: this insanity. (Or should it be the Department of Misspent Tax Dollars? You decide.) (Thanks, Joyce.)

More than organic

I’m not really a fan of Organic as a panacea for our eating ills, and the complexities of agriculture and our food system are grossly oversimplified and generally not served well by the co-opted use of the term, but this post is pretty interesting. I’m baffled by #4, but Wikipedia says ketchup’s got about 6.5 times the amount of lycopene per gram that a straight-up tomato does, so I can go along with that (since Wikipedia is a reliable source for facts and everything).

Tangentially: Maybe it’s because I’ve been thoroughly indoctrinated by my work and the food-activist circles I’m surrounded by, but I get sort of anxious if I have to resort to buying from the supermarket. I feel guilty. But if I’m stuck shopping at Whole Foods or Key Food, I’ll more likely than not choose an organic product over a conventional product. To me, it makes sense to put my money where my mouth is (and while it tends to be wrapped around a morsel of pork, I also speak often of local, seasonal, family farms, etc.). I can spare the extra dollar or whatever to at least support the idea of and an industry geared toward a more responsibly produced food. But only when it comes to the processed stuff, and none of that is usually local, seasonal, etc. I buy produce from near by (except for lemons, limes, and the occasional banana), even if it’s not organic. This is my way of voting with my dollar, I guess, though I’m ambivalent about whether it means or does anything ultimately. On the other hand, because organic labeling is so fuzzy (and nearly meaningless) in this country, I go out of my way to shop at the Greenmarket or to pick up a share from my CSA. I would guess that I get 80-90% of my food that way. And many of those guys aren’t certified organic (because their methods already go beyond organic standards, because certification is expensive, because they don’t think it means anything either).

I’ve beaten this dead horse before, and you know this dead horse if we’ve ever talked about buying food or this country’s fucked-up food system, but I felt like it had to be put out there again since people still ask me, “Slow Food? That means you eat organic, right?”

No, not really.

Red: 0, Gray: 10,000,000

One of my favorite NYT Sunday magazine stories in recent memory. Perhaps ever.
The Squirrel Wars

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