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I wrote this and this.

Carl and Mark, part 2

So! We continue with five more recipes from The Minimalist’s “25 favorites.” This set includes one of the biggest cooking disasters I can remember—and perhaps the most delightful thing I’ve ever cooked:

Oh. My. Cod. This was magnificent. Black cod with miso. Broiled black cod fillets with just three ingredients: miso, sugar, and mirin. How did I not know? How could I have gone so long without eating this? This dish makes the whole thing worthwhile. The whole “learning how to cook” thing. Not that it wasn’t a worthwhile endeavor already. But this dish really seals the deal. And it took no time at all to put together. Cod, rice, salad. Why go out? Why go anywhere? BTW, I believe this was originally a Nobu recipe that Mark adapted.

Continue reading ‘Carl and Mark, part 2’

Citrus I have loved

The one thing that makes me a little sad about imminent Spring:

Continue reading ‘Citrus I have loved’

When Mom comes to town

This is what happens.

Doing Mom proud

I contributed a dumpling recipe (my mom’s, actually) to the October/November 2009 issue of Jamie Magazine. There are still copies of the issue on US news stands.

Oh baby

One of my favorite new weekend brunch dishes: the Dutch baby, the recipe for which appeared in the April issue of Gourmet in an excellent feature on cooking with eggs. The Dutch baby is a big fluffy pancake with a little stretch and chew, and it does this fun trick while cooking:

It is also delicious and ridiculously easy to make — perfect for lazy-morning cooking.

Meat men

The new issue of The Art of Eating is out. And inside is my article on cooked charcuterie in America, for which I have Gabe Ross to thank. Also Paul Bertolli, Leah Mojer over at Formaggio Kitchen, and the Fabrique Délices guys, of course.

But Gabe was really the genesis of the piece, and — along with Mike Betit, of Tamarack Hollow, my pig farmer, who introduced me to him — the source for so many others. Gabe and I started talking about curing meat a year ago, and sometimes it feels like we haven’t really stopped since. Or every time I see him, he seems to be elbow-deep in pork and pink salt.

[An aside: Gabe has a pretty amazing freezer. Not only is it packed to the gills with various meat products or meat destined for curing (the pink cylinders you see just under his forearm, for instance, are pounds and pounds of caul fat), but it’s organized with a maniacal sense of order and efficiency as only a former cook would have.]

Last night, I got to hang out with Gabe and Jake Dickson, of Dickson’s Farmstand, one of my favorite meat purveyors, while they did some sausage recipe testing for Jake’s forthcoming butcher shop.

They make it look easy. And it is, apparently, though it takes a little practice. For their hot Italian sausage experiment, they made a fairly unadorned control, a variation with more herbs and seasoning, and a third that was inoculated and left to ferment for a short while.

The key to achieving a juicy sausage, Gabe told me, is some paddling with the mixer. This creates a network of myosin proteins that traps water and gives the sausage internal structure so it doesn’t become crumbly and dry. Incidentally, Francis had just told me a couple of months ago about using a similar technique for making dumpling filling. (I still prefer a loose filling for my dumplings; the napa cabbage and ginger give those things all the juice they need, in my opinion.)

I can attest to the juiciness of the sausages. These fermented links were from the previous trials they ran, and they tasted as good as they look. I can’t wait for the Dickson butcher shop. But in the meantime, I’m glad that Gabe lives in the neighborhood and Jake does drop-offs.

P.S. You should subscribe to The Art of Eating.

AoE in the FT

With a brief cameo appearance by yours truly.

Eat some pancakes, watch some pommel horse

Make like you’re there: what to eat if you’re watching the Olympics in NYC. (My first TONY piece.)

And no longer timely, but just in case you missed it, here’s what I had to say about the UnFancy Food Show and New Amsterdam Market on WNYC last month.

A letter of apology

Dear Microwave,

I’m sorry about all the mean things I’ve said about you over the years. To your face, even. They were nasty, uncalled for, and only somewhat true.

I really did, for the longest time, think I didn’t need you, that you just took up a lot of needless space, that you would lure me into your nefarious, cheating ways and away from my true love, Good Honest Cooking Over a Stove.

I realize now, and I have McGee and Bittman to thank for it, that I was underestimating you all this time. You’re good for so much more than just reheating rice. You make some amazing eggplant curry. And with a minimum of fuss!

Just like every other appliance in the kitchen, you too have your own special talents that you bring to my table. And instead of turning up my nose, I really should have welcomed you into my home. And I am sorry for that. For all the wasted time we’ve been apart.

I hope you’ll forgive me, Microwave. I’ll always leave room on the shelf for you. Bygones?


P.S. I will never again make fun of Joyce for relying so heavily on you.

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