The tonnarelli cacio e pepe at Flavio al Velovevodetto in Testaccio has left us pining for this dish days and weeks afterward. And now that I’ve found Saveur’s excellent recipe, it’s going into permanent rotation. (I think the last time I tried to make it, maybe a decade ago, I had improvised using a mere description and did not add enough pasta water, did not stir and toss long enough, did not use the right cheese — and ended up with dry clumpy globs. Very unpleasant.) With so few ingredients, the raw materials themselves are of utmost importance: you need the sharpness from the pecorino romano and the oozy, velvety lushness of the cacio. If Eataly had some fresh tonnarelli lying around, I would use that, but in its place I use dried bucatini (which is one of my favorite shapes anyway).