I thought I was going to restrict my search to just New York eateries, but the more I thought about it, the less that seemed to really matter. Plus, these came so highly recommended it seemed necessary to mention them.
Pizzeria Mozza, Los Angeles, California
[5-point scale scorecard]
Size: 4.5 [2″ in diameter]
Consistency: 4 [tender, fine crumb]
Flavor: 4 [delicate, almost overly so, but clearly this is quality meat]
Sauce: 4.5 [robust, chunky, addictive]
Integrity: 4.5 [holds shape nicely, gives way pleasingly to cleaving by fork]
Secret category: 3.5
Extra credit: +2 [for best oily bread — maybe ever]
The pork-veal combination offers almost too subtle a flavor, but that’s okay; give me more of that sauce! And dang, who knew there was such an art to making oily grilled bread?