Lately, I’ve been into sautéing mushrooms (portobella, shiitake, and oyster from the Ft. Green Greenmarket) in butter and then eating them alongside scrambled eggs. The whole gratin thing also reminded me of the coddled egg breakfasts I used to make back when Mark Bittman dictated every meal I made. It wasn’t a big leap to put the two together. I cooked the mushrooms as usual and then poured a little Ronnybrook cream in, cracked two eggs on top, added a pat of butter, seasoned liberally with salt, baked it at 350° until the egg set, and then threw some pepper and piment d’Espelette (Note to piment: I forgot about you! Welcome back to the table. You will never get shoved behind all the vinegars ever again.) on top. It’s like having cream of mushroom soup with poached eggs on top.