mitteleuropa, part ii: animal fat, three ways.


the hungarians do not seem to believe in light, unsubstantial fare. or if they do, they’re good at hiding it. it is not at all difficult to eat well in budapest, but i was given great direction. i can’t say if this holds true for all restaurants there, but they were definitely more into ambient lighting than the italians, because many of my photos from dinner are a bit too dark. i did some photoshopping, which hopefully hasn’t produced really heinous results. let’s start at the beginning, at
nagycsarnok, the great market:

which is clearly ginormous. and much of it is devoted to some really really ugly ‘folk art’ (read: tourist tchotchkes). but in the basement, one finds

at least three pickle stalls and fishmongers and butchers as well:

there are also butchers on the main floor, next to produce sellers and

the dudes with the paprika (say with me, people: PAH-pree-kah. not pa-PREE-kah). which means peppers in all their glorious shapes and forms (fresh, dried, pulverized, in paste, you name it, they eat it). but the floor we really care about is above. you squeeze past the ugly tourist crap until you find the beer stalls and stalls that sell

sausages, chicken, veal and other paprikas (PAH-pree-kash’) (paprika stews), rice, cabbage, peppers and beans. and we of course had to try

at least four of the sausages, from left (presumably, since the lady’s description of them all was ‘different. all different’): paprika/garlic, blood, liver and a sort of plainer kielbasa-like one. they’re served with excellent sauerkraut and some remarkably greasy and tasty potatoes.

the veal paprikas had really lovely, intense flavor and complexity. great beans. this, of course, was after we made the requisite stop at the

lángos stall. i was urged to hunt down lángos by two of my budapest advisors. apparently, this delectable, delectable treat is getting harder to find all the time. and we have no idea why, because people, it is fucking good.

good in that completely not-good-for-you-at-all kinda way. it’s a big ol’ disc of fried dough that they then smother with sour cream and sprinkle with shredded cheese. the closest approximation i can come up with for the dough is churro-like, but there’s also a chinese fried dough thing, called you tiao, that’s similar, but crunchier. this is not for the faint of heart. before i forget to mention, the other great aspect of eating in hungary, besides the food itself, is the cheapness. we got both those plates for 1200 forints, or about $5.77.

and that’s just the market. there’s a great pastry tradition in hungary, and we aren’t ones to miss out on tradition, so on our trip to the castle district, we made sure to stop by the fabled ruszwurm, where the windows are full of such sublime creations as

esterházy torta, a walnut cream egg custard confection.

gerbeaud szelet, which has has layers of wafers and apricot.

meggy rétes, or sour cherry strudel (so, so, so good), and our favorite everywhere we went,

pogacsa, a biscuit-like savory pastry. but if the biscuit could be likened to a wee mouse, the pogacsa is like a capybara, or better yet, one of these guys. okay, bad analogy — pogacsa is like a no-holds-barred, balls-to-the-wall biscuit that must contain copious amounts of butter and/or animal fat. i love ruszwurm’s description of their pogacsak.

we had two dinners out — apparently, most hungarians eat dinner at home, so we were mostly surrounded by french, german, italian, british and american tourists (which i guess we qualify as). we went to kárpátia étterem (the latter means ‘restaurant’), which, like so many dining establishments in budapest, has successfully retained its very old world feel and beautiful, turn-of-the-century decor:

we began with the meat plate:

and for good measure we had them add some foie gras. and speaking of, the hungarians have an extraordinary amount of foie gras at their disposal it seems. i mean, every butcher erects fortresses of tins of fatty goose liver on top of his glass case, and every restaurant/bar/café offers at least one preparation (some offer at least four). they use it like a garnish, the way the italians use parsley and raw carrots (guess which i prefer?). the foie here would be those big pale slabs on the right. clockwise, from 6 o’clock, we’ve got mangalica sausage, made from these ridiculous-looking beasts and another spicy, coarser salami, and a third finer-ground, super-fatty salami that spurted oil and bits of fat when you bit into it. the pickled onions (2 o’clock) were delicious.

matt got a sort of cockerel paprikas, which came with two fist-sized túros dumplings (túros being the beloved hungarian version of quark, or a sort of cottage cheese). while very tasty, we were both more impressed with my

csusza, their typical square-cut pasta (that is very similar to maltagliati). this is covered in a sour cream sauce into which a heaping portion of oyster mushroom-like mushrooms have been added. yet again, probably not good for me, but i can’t say i didn’t enjoy it. or that i didn’t reallyreallyreally enjoy it. oh, before i forget, hungarian wines are fantastic. they seem to be becoming the hot new thing in the states, but i think they’re probably still overlooked or difficult to find outside the big metropolises. i’d never even heard of the villányi region, but the reds from this area are fantastic. they tend to vint cabs, cab francs and the like. they have a wonderful fullness in the mouth but aren’t overpowering. they go perfectly with hungarian food, of course, but would make a great red for regular drinking. and of course, everyone knows about tokaji aszu botrytized wines, but i also had some lovely dry tokaji as well. (how convenient that tokaji aszu takes to foie gras like nothing else. i’ll take it over sauternes any day. okay, i lie. i’ll take both.) there’s just dozens of hungarian varietals that i’ve never even heard of, not to mention regions. the possibilities make me all kinds of excited.

and no, we’re not done yet. i really should have broken this up into separate posts, but i think getting the full effect is not unlike the experience of actually eating in hungary. so, dinner saturday night was at borvendéglo” 1849, gundel’s (perhaps the most renowned budapest restaurant) youngest sibling. located in gundel’s wine cellar, the setting and ambience are definitely among the best i’ve ever come across in europe. and the food was just spot on:

first of all, because they give you a little basket of mini-pogacsak. just as buttery and delightful as ruszwurm’s.

the requisite cured meat assortment. from top, counterclockwise: (smoked?) chicken breast, wrapped in bacon. some túros spread, paprikafied, i think. some nice peppery unidentifiable sprouts. cured venison. there’s some duck breast stuffed with its liver somewhere on there, but what we care about most are the goose cracklings on the right. yeah, sick-making, this was. in the best way, of course. oh, and there’s a pear and some raw pepper slices too. for his first course, matt had the

spinach palacsinta (pancake), covered in a bleu-cheese sauce. excellent. he loved it, but i have to say, i much preferred my

roe-deer ragout soup with potato dumplings. a dollop of sour cream, some generous chunks of chestnut and potato and carrot. yum. unfortunately, matt’s main dish came out much too dark for posting, but my

oven-crisped goose leg seems to be discernible. we’ve also got braised cabbage and a sort of potato mash thing going on here. both goose and cabbage left me speechless. or maybe i said something along the lines of ‘wow, more — goose — fat. mmmmrrrmmmph.’ matt’s main course was, in a word, ridiculous. it was slabs of veal, beef and pork, all cooked to tender, juicy, velvety perfection and covered with a sick, sick red wine demi-glace sauce (the hungarians have their sauces down; i’ve never had such perfect sauces) with grilled foie gras. yeah, so altogether, we managed to consume seven different kinds of animal.

we skipped dessert.

i should mention again how reasonably priced the food is here as well. the cost of all this, plus a bottle of wine and an aperitif for each of us for both dinners came to about $50 each. and both were definitely at least 5 times better than most places that cost twice as much in new york.

on sunday, before we left town, we managed to squeeze in a trip to gerbeaud, the most famous pastry shop in budapest. and though many wish to pooh-pooh it for its touristy-ness, they really do turn out some great pastries. we had more pogacsa, naturally, but then broke down and got the foie gras terrine plate, which came with roasted endive and little brioche rolls. i’m sorry to say i left my camera in the hotel, because not only is gerbeaud breathtakingly appointed, with great views of the square outside, but we got three hand-sized, half-inch-thick slabs of terrine. it seems like most of the foie gras here is made from goose. i think goose fat is now streaming through my veins.

november seems like a good month for salads. (aside from the obvious seasonality issues.)
but seriously, no more meat.
(well, until turkey day, anyway.)

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6 Responses to “mitteleuropa, part ii: animal fat, three ways.”


  1. 1 fwc October 31, 2005 at 10:15 am

    winnie continues to eat her way through europe. those sheep-pigs are super cute! and are you racking up your credit card debt or what? 😉

  2. 3 daisy November 7, 2005 at 3:59 pm

    i went to budapest for a day as a day trip from our base in vienna on lydia’s birthday, june 3, about 5 1/2 years ago. we got so many stupid tickets from the public transportation police (1300 forints was our fine), and all that i really recall was the meat. lovely, lovely meat. and paddling around a castle in a rowboat (i did the rowing).

  3. 4 winnie November 8, 2005 at 2:41 am

    dude, i totally didn’t post about the friggin tickets, but i swear to god, they target tourists. and who isn’t more obviously a tourist in budapest than your or me? in -any other country- you’d be able talk the transport popo out of the ticket (well, except maybe france), but this woman like stonewalled me. i think they’ve raised the fines somewhat — we got just one, the two of us, which was 1400 forints each! this put me off the subway. we took it all of twice in the three days we were there and just walked everywhere.

  4. 5 Bea February 24, 2008 at 5:16 pm

    Wow! Great post! Delicious food! Anyway, I’m from Hungary. I’m glad to read that you had a great time there!
    The lángos is one of my favourite. I hope you had yours with garlic as well! The best!!!!
    You should have tried my mom’s pogácsa with dill. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
    Hungarian cuisine is really good and unhealthy, but we live only once. At the moment I live in the UK and I miss Hungarian flavours.

    (I know I’m a bit late with my comment, but who cares?!?!?!)


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