miraculous spring! (but oh, those torrents you send.)

at the market last week i was stoked to find:

wild fennel! unlike its bulbous domestic (that is, american) counterpart, this finocchio is a riot of fronds and leaves. all the flavor seems to be concentrated above and not below (and i can’t really imagine eating the woody tough root/stems). the little old piedmontese man (he was shorter than me!) very firmly insisted that i chop up the greenery and cook it in a pan and toss it with spaghetti, bread crumbs, and cheese. i left out the breadcrumbs and had enough on hand to experiment with variations on that theme (one day a handful of cime di rape, another a little onion). this is the version i made when my sister came, complete with fresh cipolle, a bit of anchovy, and lots and lots of parm. and chickpea and tomato soup with cilantro and green onion on the side:


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