leave it to steingarten to revive my obsession with food: i finally finished his latest, it must have been something i ate, last week, after a period of boredom with food lit. i think my trip to jean georges also helped. (how kickass would it be to work there?) speaking of jg, wd-50’s finally made a press appearance, after some delay in opening. (the correlation: wd was chef de cuisine at jg at some point & vongerichten himself is one of dufresne’s backers.) it must be terrifying to be wylie at this moment, when everything hinges on his sophomore effort. but also, how exhilarating to be given such freedom (or to be able to take such liberties). what i really dig is that he’s got glenn goodwin in the kitchen, as well — possibly my favoritest sommelier ever. he’s got a truly impressive palate, that one. the concept behind wd-50 sounds really appealing and really adria (as the nytimes article points out). i’m not sure if it’s unfortunate or not that chefs feel this need to innovate by flinging all sorts of crazy shit at their ingredients and cooking processes. the nerd in me wholly embraces it (and plus, i worship adria.). i think the place’ll swim.

am currently neck-deep in jacques pepin’s new memoir, the apprentice, and i don’t know if i should be so surprised that it’s a great read. he’s not a bad prose stylist. but i guess he’s been in this country for some forty-odd years. in any case, it’s a fascinating look at post-war french cuisine, as well as the burgeoning gastronomic movement in america (if one might call it that).

:: larder ::
short ribs. thinking i’ll do a braise, mom-style, with soy sauce, garlic, ginger, and lots of anise. i think mark bittman’s got a version in HTCE as well.
eggplant. baba ghanouj? ratatouille? roasted with a ton of garlic? maybe just sauteed with basil. yum.

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