Archive for the 'meatballs' Category

In search of the perfect meatball, part ii: Pizzeria Mozza

I thought I was going to restrict my search to just New York eateries, but the more I thought about it, the less that seemed to really matter. Plus, these came so highly recommended it seemed necessary to mention them.

Pizzeria Mozza, Los Angeles, California
[5-point scale scorecard]
Size: 4.5 [2" in diameter]
Consistency: 4 [tender, fine crumb]
Flavor: 4 [delicate, almost overly so, but clearly this is quality meat]
Sauce: 4.5 [robust, chunky, addictive]
Integrity: 4.5 [holds shape nicely, gives way pleasingly to cleaving by fork]
Secret category: 3.5
Extra credit: +2 [for best oily bread -- maybe ever]
Overall: 27/30

The pork-veal combination offers almost too subtle a flavor, but that’s okay; give me more of that sauce! And dang, who knew there was such an art to making oily grilled bread?

In search of the perfect meatball, part i: Lunetta

No more mucking about.
No more manicotti distractions or slumming ducks.

It’s time to get serious.

Lunetta (Brooklyn, yo)
[5-point scale scorecard]
Size: 4.5 [about 2" in diameter; forgot the tape measure]
Consistency: 3.5 [dense crumb, yet still tender, with discernible grind; could be juicier]
Flavor: 3.5 [could use more salt, but good umami]
Sauce: 2 [thin in every possible way, but nice festive green flecks]
Integrity: 4.5 [holds together under duress]
Secret category: 3.5
Overall: 21.5/30

Even though Perilla’s meatballs are disqualified because of their main ingredient (not to mention the egg), I’d rank them ahead of these. These are about even with Frankies 457 (but with much different scores, it must be said).

What other meatballs are worthy contenders, in your estimation? Feel free to make suggestions in the comments. (And note that this quest knows no bounds: for good meatballs, I will travel.)


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