Have a heart

Or five or six.

[Warning for the faint of -- ahem: scores of undoubtedly cute little chickens, ducks, and guinea fowl gave their lives for this post.]

For the last edition of Choice Cuts, we screened the Jules Dassin short of Poe’s “The Tell-Tale Heart.” So obviously, I had to cook some hearts.

My favorite meatmongers at Dickson’s Farmstand Meats (now permanently brick-and-mortared at Chelsea Market) happened to have three bags of various bird hearts for me. However, they were also mixed in with gizzards and livers, so I spent an hour or two picking through the sacks, rinsing and sorting.

I fried them in butter, as per Fergus Henderson,deglazed with a little vincotto, and put those chewy, saucy little hearts on toast. Sprinkle with parsley, serve, rinse, repeat.

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